I have headache caused by the new GMail UI what can not be reverted now. The UI is much worse than the old and every theme in the GMail is a joke: the message thread is not readable because the low contrast of the message titles on light themes and the dark themes opens the messages in very light colors. It is a real joke.
After plenty of trials the following mixture of extensions helped me to bear with the situation:
Stylish - GMail Theme (but removing the background image code manually), Add labels to toolbar icons
Greasemonkey (userscripts.org) - GMail Compact
Now it is usable and quite nice.
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